Denali

We stayed at the Denali Bluffs Motel aptly named because it is up on a bluff. In the morning, the tour bus picked us up for our 8 ½ hour tour of Denali National Park. They use old school uses for the tour buses because they are lighter and due less damage to the road. You can’t drive into Denali, only on tour buses. We stopped by other motels to pick up more people Shortly out of town the microphone for the driver to narrate started cutting out. He tested and tested until we all were about to scream. He decided to go back and get a new part. With all of that fooling around it was almost an hour before we were underway. He does narrate almost all the time so it was important.
Along the way to mountain viewing, it is a constant watch for wildlife. We were rewarded quite soon by a group of 3 caribou not to far from the road. After that the hunt was really on. Most of the park is tundra like. Because of the short amount of daylight and growing season, the tundra line starts at about 2700 feet while in Colorado it is 10,000 feet. Above the plant line the mountains are barren. The road is paved for the first 13 miles and after that it is a hard packed dirt road, narrow dirt road. I was amazed the buses could pass one another. It was smoother than I thought and they did have water trucks out attempting to keep the dust down. It was quite a thrill for those on the bus that had not experienced narrow mountain roads that hug the hillside with steep drop-offs. Our driver was unfazed, just kept talking and driving.
People on the bus came from all over—Virginia, Pennsylvania, England, Georgia. Let me tell you about the Georgia women. They were well put together for this tour complete with jewelry and perfect makeup. One woman’s hair was perfect and somehow it still looked perfect when she came in from the gale force winds that were blowing. Me not so much!! They and their husbands were frantic to see wildlife. The bus stopped for black dots on the “fa hill”. One time no one could see the black dot she was sure was a bear and she said—it went behind that peak! We look and there are so many peaks that it was pretty funny.
The only bears we saw were far away. A moose was closer, but the dall sheep were the best. On the way out they were pretty far out, but on the way back they were perched on the rocks just above the road.
The main attraction of the day was Mt. McKinley. It was partially out so we could get some idea of its size. I looked in the visitors center at the chart and it doesn’t matter what month you come, it averages about 9 days a month where McKinley is visible—not very good odds. We see Baker about 1/3 of the time too, but people aren’t flocking by the thousands to see it. At the visitors center you are 36 miles away from the mountain and the closest that you get is 24 miles. Not only is the park in a remote area it feels remote when you are there or at least I felt that way.
We had lunch at Karnishna Lodge and were entertained by a dog sled presentation. His father raced in the Iditarod 4 times winning it in 1975. His name is Martin Phillips and his son is a Jr. He has been running dog sleds since he was 2. He grew up in Ruby which is one of the check points on the trail. They have a race for toddlers, the mother releases the brake and they race their dog sled to their Dads. He was very entertaining and at the same time informative. After his talk, we went out to the kennel. The lodge gets six dogs from the shelter each season that he uses for the demo and trains. When the season is over they are up for adoption. Last year one girl took all six and she won the Jr. Iditarod this past year. The dogs by the way are a mix of husky for power, Irish setter for boundless energy, lab for liking water, and collies for smarts. And female dogs make the best lead dogs. The way they train in the summer is that they hook the harness up to an ATV and around the roads they go. They were pretty excited when he fired up the machine.
On the way back it was more wildlife looking and the mountain was still not out. We got back into Denali about 8 pm. We are glad that we went, but I’m not sure that we would go to Denali again.

Glacier flight

A new experience awaited us at K2 tours and that was a flight over glaciers on Mt. McKinley. Eight of us climbed into this little plane and put our headsets on. I had never been in such a small plane so was a little nervous to start with, but quickly got involved with the scenery. We headed out across the valley toward the mountain and glaciers on the right side. We got very close and he kept turning the plane and dipping so we could all get good views and photos. Most of the mountain was cloud covered, but what we saw was fascinating. I remembered that the camera has video capabilities and shot a couple of movies of the trip. I was surprised at how dirty the glaciers are up close. They are different from the ones that are in the Kenai Fjord area in that respect. The surroundings on the mountains are all dirt so it stands to reason that it would blow onto the snow. All in all a great experience that we are glad that we did.
Next up was to walk the short distance from the airstrip to the tiny town of Talkeetna. We wondered through the little shops and had lunch before catching the shuttle back to the motel. The nice thing about these shops nearly everything was made by local artistians.
At 6 pm we boarded the bus to go to Denali, three hours away. The drivers narrate along the way so you learn alot about the area as you go. We saw two moose right next to the road. Next up--Denali National Park.

To Talkeetna

August 15—will be posting later. While there is wifi, it doesn’t seem to be real stable. We left Windsong Lodge this morning in the rain traveling in a large bus to Anchorage. The stop in Anchorage was long enough for lunch and a quick look through the museum. We had lunch at the Crush which is a little bistro not far from the museum. It is directly across the street from Nordstroms. Considering where we have been since leaving home, it was kind of a jolt to have that upscale store right there.
Not to fear, our Alaskan experience was about to continue as we traveled north through Wasilla and Willow to the Talkeetna Lodge. It is an amazing lodge overlooking a wide valley of trees with a mountain range and Mt. McKinley as the backdrop. McKinley was not out last night but the view was still panoramic. We had dinner with the same view and then took our chocolate martininis out on the viewing deck. It was a warm evening, the first we have had since we left Sitka nearly two weeks ago.
Don went running this morning and saw a bear and two cubs. The sun is out this morning with high clouds. Have great hopes that the mountain will be visible.

Anchorage/Seward

Our flight to Anchorage was delayed because of fog in Wrangall and Petersburg so we spent a goodly amount of time in the Juneau airport. On our arrival in Anchorage we were back in the land of motel shuttles which was a happy discovery. Juneau is not user friendly when you come in anyway but on a cruise ship so this was a welcome change. We stayed at the Comfort Inn because it is close to the railroad station that would take us to Seward. The only problem with that was it was a hike to dinner. We found the Snow Goose which also has the Sleeping Lady Brewry. The food and view were great. The owners wife is a quilter and she has decorated the place with huge appliqued quilts depicting Alaska scenes and wildlife. Amazing!
Friday morning we boarded the train to Seward. It is a beautiful trip and narrated by a host. The Windsong Motel met the train, dropped us off in town and took our luggage to the motel. We had lunch, shopped a bit, went to the aquarium and walked along the shore. Motel shuttle picked us up to take us to the motel. The windsong is set in the woods with 8-10 buildings that have 10 or so rooms. Our window opens on to the woods. Beautiful rustic setting--would recommend this place for sure.
Yesterday we took an 8 hour Kenai Fjords tour. We saw quite a lot of wildlife along the way to the Aialik Glacier. It comes down to the water and he got the boat right up to it. We were told that the end of this glacier has been in the same spot for about 100 years. It is replenishing itself at the same rate that it calfs off so that is good. The weather turned nasty on the way home with rain and choppy seas. I think we were all glad to get into the bay and calmer waters. We had dinner on Fox Island then headed back to Seward.
Seward is the beginning of the Iditerod and the big salmon fishing derby starts today. Don said he might some day do a fishing charter. Think he was encouraged by the catches that were coming in. In 1964 there was a 9.2 earthquake that shook for 4 minutes destroying many buildings. What was really devastating was the tsumami that followed. A wall of water 40 feet high surged up the inlet virtually wiping out the downtown and the fishing industry. They have rebuilt, but the area along the shore is parks, rv camping and othter things devoted to tourism.
As I type, I hear the rain coming down. According to weather.com, it is suppose to be nice in Denali,our next stop. We can only hope

Skagway

We saw more whales on the way from Juneau to Skagway and the mountains when we could see their tops were jagged and rugged looking. Waterfalls starting near the top of the mountain cascaded to the water below. This ferry had a puzzle set up on a table in the back of the lounge which occupied some time both coming and going.
Our motel met us and its other guests at the ferry terminal in Skagway, something the other communities along the way could take note of. In the morning, we set out with our map to take the walking tour. Many or most of the buildings in the 7 block downtown area were built from 1898-1902. As we learned, they might not have all started out where they are situated now, but moved in from side streets. In the early morning there is no one around and the quiet was striking after being in the Alaskan Hotel for a few days prior! We learned about the gold rush and the history of the community. It took brave souls to pack up a years supply of food and head into the mountains in search of their fortune.
In the afternoon we rented a tandem bike and rode out of town to explore the Gold Rush Cemetery. The town hero, Frank Reid and the outlaw, Soapy Smith are buried there. Reid is a hero because he shot Smith. A sign in town says, and there has been peace and order ever since. There is a waterfall behind the cemetery that we hiked up to. We toured around on the bike a little more before returning it.
Later in the day, I found the quilt shop which is by far the best one I’ve seen on this trip. I bought some things that will represent good memories of our time in Alaska. In the evening we ate at the Red Onion Saloon. It is the oldest bar in Skagway (1898) and used to have a brothel upstairs. You can take a tour of the upstairs and the sign reads: $5 for 15 minutes just like in 1898!
There were 4 cruise ships in the harbor when we left. The town was expecting 9000 people that day—wonder where they put them all? The channel is very deep there and they park those big ships right at the dock. Think we got out of town just in time. Many take the train ride over White Pass which we saved for another time.
I’m going to skip our overnight in Juneau as it was uneventful and irritating. Next up: Anchorage.

More Juneau

Set off this morning to find the govenor's house which we did with no problem. From there is was go back the way we came or climb the stairs to the top. We opted for the stairs--ye gads!! Found St. Nicholas church which is Russian Orthodo and they seem to have the same problem as the one in Sitka--give us money to repair our roof and in this case fix the foundation as it is sliding--oh my!
Next up was a tram ride to the top of Mount Roberts where we had lunch and did one of the trails. It was misty rain so the views were not as good as the could be. On our walk back from the tram along Franklin to the Alaskan Hotel where we are staying, Don counted 30 jewelery stores--must be a hot item for the cruise ships.
Did some shopping and mailed a package home.
In the evening we went back up the tram for all you can eat crab dinner. They paired it with a wine from Maryhill--a touch of home and it was excellent. We learned that the rock that came out of the Juneau mine was used to fill in the dodwntown area of Juneau and make the highway and the airport. From the shuttle driver on the way to the glacier we learned that the buildings on the left or water ?
We were told that Saturday night is a slow night in Juneau and it seemed to be the case with hardly anyone out on our walk back to the hotel. They did party at the Alaskan Bar way into the early morning!
Earlier in our visit we went into the Red Dog Saloon just because it is the oldest in town. We didn't stay long as we got a waitress with an attitude.
Ferry trip to Skagway this afternoon. Thanks for following.

On to Juneau

We boarded the newest ferry, the Fairweather, for the trip to Juneau. Built in 2004, it is a catamaran type and quite nice. Not true to its name, it rained a good portion of the way. We did see some whales--they sure have fun in the wild!
We are staying at the Alaska Hotel which is on the National Historical Registar--on the third floor. They are keeping it up pretty well and it is right in the heart of downtown. A block to the water and a few to points of interest.
Today it was raining hard so we set out on a walking tour to the state capitol. They give tours then let you wander the building. It was built as the territorial government offices and when Alaska became a state, was converted to the capitol building. It has no dome. From there we went to the Alaska museum and that was very interesting and the couple of hours spent there allowed the rain to slow to a mist.
In the afternoon, we took a shuttle bus to the Mendenhall Glacier. The snow field is tinged with blue and has a bright blue center near the water. Quite impresssive, but gives one pause to think about how it is receeding. There is a photo taken and placed where the glacier was in 1952 and it seems to me that it has receded a long way in 60 years. There were several trails around the area that we walked. Earlier in the day, bears were spotted, but we didn't see any.
Tommorrow we keep exploring Juneau.

Sitka

Our stay in Sitka is nearing the end so will relate our time here. We arrived in the middle of the night so everything was new in the morning. We are staying at the Sitka Hotel which has a convienent resturant and bar downstairs. It is right downtown which is important when there is no car. Map in hand we began a walking tour of the town. At the center of downtown is the very old Russian Orthodox Church. It is very ornately decorated with many artifacts displayed. Displayed, but not labeled and no one relates the history for you and they charge. By contrast the Lutheran Church across the street is free, has a doicent and it is very simply decorated and is still in use. One of the Russian leaders was married to a Finnish women and she was instrumental in establishing the chirch. Because of fires it has been rebuilt a couple of times, but the little short pulpit is original.
The Tligint tribe occupied this land when the Russians came and took it over. There is a block house that sits on a hill that was armed for the purpose of keeping the Russians and the Indians from attacking each other. On Castle Hill that is behind the hotel and overlooking the bay is the site of the transfer of Alaska from Russia to the United States in 1867. The site became the first historical site in Alaska after Alaska became a state in 1959.
Today Sitka is a fishing community. The harbor is full of working boats. It is fun to watch the activity. Tourism swells the town as the cruise ships pilot their passengers from out on the bay where they are anchored. Don calls them the boat people--they probably wouldn't like that! The shops are a blend of Native works, Russian influence and Alaskan products. We appreciate the logos that represent made in Alaska so that you know you are getting something truly from here.
Yesterday we did a nature trail along the water through huge spruce trees. There are totem poles throughout. I much prefer the totems in among the trees than in town squares.

Day in Ketchikan

There is no place to stow luggage when you come in on one ferry and the one that you are catching goes out 18 hours later. So here we are trudging up and down the streets of Ketchikan with our luggage in tow. People asked us if we were moving. I did feel displaced from time to time and as we climbed the hill to see the fish, like a beast of burden. The stream was teeming with fish trying to get up the rushing waterfall or up the fish ladder. The naturalist on the ferry gave a talk on salmon and only 2% of the eggs live out their life cycle. The good news is that Alaska has maintained or restored the salmon habitat and the populations are stable.
Salmon fishing has been a mainstay of their economy for a long time. In the museum was a sign from one of the early canneries: We eat what we can and we can what we can’t.
Besides the museum we wandered the town reading about their history. We went into the Dolly Museum. Dolly was a madam and ran her house by herself and was the last one to close. It is as she left it and if they don’t do some restoration soon, it isn’t going to last much longer. It and many of the shops are along Creek Street named because the creek is where a street would be normally. Everything is on very high pilings with a boardwalk.
Three cruise ships were in town so with time to kill we watched the Celebrity one leave—huge.
At 11pm we boarded the Taku for the next leg of our journey. By the time we were awake, the ferry was nearing Wrangall. From there a brief stop in Petersburg. Took pictures for my friend, Anita. Next up was Kake. I took a picture of a green road sign as it seemed out of place on this remote highway. Our entertainment while we were in port was that the crew did a drill with the life boat. With three of them in it, they lowered it to the water, drove it around for a bit and hoisted it back up. Regulations require that they do that every once in awhile—nice to know that it works.
We keep ourselves busy reading, Sudoku, I’m knitting, and picture taking. This afternoon as we neared this gorgeous mountain range that appears to rise from the sea, whale watching was the main source of fun. At one time we could see about a dozen sprays and breaches, most of them far away, but some quite close. We got our exercise rushing from one side to the other.
The weather has been perfect. Every day has been sunny and warm—couldn’t ask for anything better. Tonight we get into Sitka so will post from the motel.

Day on the ferry

We woke to fog and it looked to be a dreary day. By noon, it had cleared off and for the next 8 hours we had views much like the photo. It is a beautiful trip and we were lucky to have nice weather. We saw a pod of dolphins playing and following the ferry and a whale breaching in the distance. Some of the channels we went through are narrow making for close inspection of the store.This morning we arrrived in Ketchikan and will catch another ferry to Sika tonight. We have toured the old part of town and are going to the fish ladder. I wondered the fabric shop, but am waiting for later to purchase.

Sailing Day

I We have always considered our kids fortunate in the classmates that they had and the friends that they chose. We enjoyed the company of two of Alan’s classmates and friends as we began our Alaska adventure. Keith went with us to Bellingham so that he could drive our car home. We met another classmate, Ike, in Bellingham at the Boundary Bay Brewery for lunch and a brew. To pass the time before the ferry departure, we went to Ike’s house to admire his garden and his new shed.
They took us to the ferry terminal—ferry is large with 8 decks. We departed in sun with great views. We watched the sun set and enjoyed the orange and pink sky for a long time. Not long before they closed the curtains for the evening, we passed Vancouver. We have an Inside Passage map with us and follow the progress helped by the GPS screen by the pursers office and a map upstairs that they periodically move a piece of yellow tape to show where we are. I think those islands should have signs that say what they are as it isn’t easy from the water!
The rooms are tiny, but if you use them just for sleeping they are okay. People are from all over; London, Alabama, California to name a few. This morning it is foggy and just when it looked like it would burn off, it has gotten real socked in. We are about to clear Vancouver Island and do an open water crossing. They keep saying that it could get rough—will see.
There is no wifi on the ferry so will post this when I am able.